2007 Andersons Conn Valley Eloge

The 2007 Eloge is a profoundly complex, extraordinary wine that is showing better out of bottle than it ever did from barrel. The final blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot and Merlot reveals an inky/purple color as well as a gorgeous nose of graphite, creme de cassis, cedarwood, Christmas fruitcake, bay leaf and a damp forest floor-like character. It possesses sensational depth, a full-bodied opulence, admirable purity and a skyscraper-like texture and finish. This killer wine has not yet closed down, and it should drink well for 20-25 years. Tucked away in the sometimes seemingly forgotten Conn Valley, this winery is run with considerable gusto by Todd Anderson and his winemaker Mac Sawyer. This is an undeniable source of very complex and potentially age worthy wines. As did his father, Gus, Todd Anderson has consistently done well with Chardonnay from a cool climate site in the Green Valley south of the city of Napa. The 2008 and 2009 Chardonnay Fournier are both non-malolactic, barrel-fermented Chardonnays that have lots of minerality and little evidence of wood. They are made from the newer Dijon Clone rather than the clone preferred by most of the outstanding practitioners of California Chardonnay, the Old Wente and occasionally the Mt. Eden clone. The Right Bank cuvee is made from Merlot, which usually dominates, and the rest Cabernet Franc. This offering has been a winner since its debut release and it continues to be one of Napa Valley’s most interesting wines. My favorite offering from Todd Anderson is the Eloge cuvee, a distinctive effort of first-growth quality. One would think this wine would be somewhat Medoc-like as it is generally one-half to two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon combined with a significant amount of Cabernet Franc. However, one can’t really compare it to a Medoc since there is never that much Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux Medocs and there is not that much Cabernet Sauvignon in any St.-Emilion or Pomerol. A project I had not tasted before is the small lot (500-750 cases) of the Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label. Aged longer in barrels than its siblings, it is meant to be a super-premium wine. If you have not yet discovered the wines from this nearly 28 acre vineyard tucked away a few miles east of the famed Meadowood Resort, it’s time. Tel. (707) 963-8600; Fax (707) 963-7818