2008 Radio-Coteau Syrah Timbervine

From a cool climate site in the Russian River, the 2008 Syrah Timbervine (25% stems used) displays copious aromas of underbrush, herbs, meat, flowers, black raspberries and blackberries. Medium to full-bodied, more structured and less showy than Las Colinas, it is a beautifully made, pure Syrah that is capable of lasting for a decade. Proprietor Eric Sussman seems to go from strength to strength at this small boutique winery. One of the buzz words in the wine world is -natural- winemaking, which has no real definition and is often shamelessly used to promote a certain style of wine. Yet Radio-Coteau is a great example of 'natural winemaking' native indigenous fermentations, incredibly low usage of SO2 and biodynamically farmed vineyards. Then add the fact that the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Of course, human beings/civilization have to intervene in the winemaking process, so until grapes are produced that can detach themselves from the vine and hop, skip and jump to a fermenter and make themselves, we will never have 100% 'natural' wines. Eric Sussman's three 2008 Syrahs have also turned out fabulously well, with all of them living up to the higher end of my barrel tasting range of scores of last year. The 2009 Syrahs are not as intense as their 2008 counterparts. However, given how Eric Sussman's wines often put on weight in the barrel, my current ratings may look conservative a year from now. Tel. (707) 823-2578; Fax (707) 823-2112

Opaque purple. Blackcurrant, minerals and smoked meat on the primary nose. Suave on entry, then packed with sweet dark fruit flavor in the middle, gaining structure with air. Not a weighty style but juicy and punchy, with well-delineated flavors of boysenberry, black cherry, licorice and candied violet. This seamless, sappy wine finishes with fine-grained tannins and impressive energy.