2010 Radio-Coteau Syrah Timbervine

(aged for 22 months in 3 puncheons, one of them new): Glass-staining ruby. Dark berry liqueur, candied violet, sassafras and black olive on the highly perfumed nose. Extremely fresh and precise, offering sweet black and blue fruit flavors and an emphatic floral quality on the back half. Rich, lively, with superb finishing clarity and fully absorbed tannins. In relative terms this is a superb value in a syrah from anywhere. (JR)

A thrill a minute, the 2010 Syrah Timbervine is loaded with class and intensity. Firm tannins back up the fruit in this powerful, voluptuous wine. Black cherries, plums, savory herbs, tobacco and licorice all jump from the glass. The Timbervine is a bit more muscular and overt than the Colinas. I especially like the richness and volume of the broad, expansive finish. This is yet another magnificent wine from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2024. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

Glass-staining ruby. Deep, pungent aromas of blueberry, cassis, pipe tobacco, olive and pepper. Sappy and sweet, with vibrant black and blue fruit flavors supported by a firm mineral underpinning. This broad, sappy syrah offers a suave blend of sweetness and juicy acidity. Finishes spicy and vibrant, with slow-building tannins and excellent persistence. (JR)