2007 Familia Torres Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon

Deep ruby-red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant, cherry, dried rose and cedar, with a subtle tobacco note gaining strength with air. Pliant red and dark berry flavors show a spicy quality, with fine-grained tannins adding back-end grip. This silky, elegant wine finishes with very good clarity and lingering smoke and spice qualities. It's approachable now but will also reward the patient collector.

The purple-colored 2007 Mas La Plana displays notes of smoky oak, spice box, violets, black currant, and blackberry in its inviting bouquet. It opens in the glass to reveal a smooth texture, elegant personality, and enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years. Nicely proportioned and with excellent volume, it has a drinking window that extends from 2014 to 2027. Mas La Plana has a demonstrated track record for longevity. I was shown vintages dating back to 1971 that were in fine condition. Especially impressive was the 1981, which at age 30 has an elegance that only maturity can impart. There was a time, perhaps 35-40 years ago when I was just becoming interested in fine wine, that Torres and Spanish wine were synonymous in the USA. There was Vega Sicilia for the cognoscenti, and a few Riojas floating about for those past the beginner stage, but for most of us there was Torres and it usually delivered the goods at a nice price ($3 for Sangre de Toro). Currently Torres towers over all the table wine producers in Penedes making several million cases plus one million cases of brandy. The winery is a tourist destination with a first-class restaurant. For many years the Torres flagship was the Gran Coronas Black Label, subsequently renamed Mas La Plana. It is produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Mas La Plana vineyard and aged for 18 months in new French oak. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770