2006 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel

The brilliant 2006 Esprit de Beaucastel (45% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache, 22% Syrah, and the rest Counoise) possesses abundant aromas of underbrush, blueberries, blackberries, coffee beans, and licorice. An elegant, long, pure, medium to full-bodied effort, it is a faithful representation of its Mediterranean blend. Consume it over the next decade. This Paso Robles outpost is owned by two Francophiles, Frenchman Francois Perrin (one of the owners of the Rhone Valley's Chateau Beaucastel) and Robert Haas (founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, and a pioneer importer of estate-bottled French wines). Seeking out steep limestone ridges near the Pacific Ocean, Tablas Creek was a work in progress for its first four to five years, but it has come on like gang-busters in the 21st century. The 2007s are unquestionably their finest wines to date, but readers should not overlook the excellent 2006s. Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

(45% mourvedre, 28% grenache, 22% syrah and 5% counoise) Deep red with a bright rim. Spicy red berries, potpourri and minerals on the nose; this smells awfully fresh. Bright, palate-staining raspberry and blackcurrant flavors possess excellent concentration and are leavened by zesty minerality. Finishes smooth and silky, with echoing raspberry and floral qualities. This is complex enough to enjoy right now.

65% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc, 5% Picpoul Blanc Full and rich and reasonably complex with just a hint of oiliness, but too expensive! (JR)