2001 Behrens Family The Heavyweight

The 2001 The Heavyweight is packaged in a ponderously thick, heavy bottle that must have been designed by orthopedic surgeons. A Bordeaux blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot, and 12% Merlot, it reveals an un-Bordeaux-like alcohol level of 15.6%. The fruit sources are all high-class vineyards, including Fortuna for the Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Kenefick Ranch for the Petit Verdot, and Thorevilos for the Cabernet Sauvignon. This big, bruising offering reminds me of dry vintage port. Its style is not terribly dissimilar from two 100-point wines, the 1997 Bryant Family Vineyard and 1997 Harlan, although it does not quite have the complexity of those two efforts, hence the mid-90 point score. Amazing stuff, it boasts an unctuous texture, great density, terrific richness, and a palate-staining thickness/viscosity. Gobs of creamy black currant fruit are present in this opulent, voluptuous, over-sized, pure, unadulterated, 100% in-your-face California offering. It should drink well for 12-15 years. I admire what Les Behrens, Bob Hitchcock, their wives, friends, and lunatic dog are doing at their winery and cellars on the top of Spring Mountain. They are obsessed fanatics who make wine with no compromises ... obviously my kind of people. Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206

(75% cabernet sauvignon, the rest merlot) Saturated dark ruby. Liqueur-like blueberry, blackberry and licorice aromas show an almost porty ripeness. Hugely ripe and distinctly port-like, with great sucrosity and a creamy middle. Densely packed, powerful, slightly aggressive wine. Very long on the palate, with ripe tannins and a late hint of dark chocolate syrup.