2003 Behrens Family The Heavyweight

Speaking of a Heavyweight, the 2003 (50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% equal parts Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) is a sensational 375-case effort from the Thorevilos Vineyard owned by David Abreu and Ric Foreman. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by an explosive bouquet of black and blue fruits, cedar, and high quality French oak. Boasting tremendous richness, fatness, opulence, and a viscous feel in the mouth, it is a big, in-your-face offering with low acidity, huge fruit, and a blockbuster finish. It should drink well for 10-12 years. Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206

(50% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon, 5% petit verdot and 5% cabernet franc; 15.6% alcohol) Red-ruby, a bit less saturated than the Contender. Brooding aromas of blueberry and licorice. Superripe and sweet, with dense, strong, somewhat chunky blue fruit flavors. Large-scaled but a bit dry, and clearly in an oxidative phase today (I get a dried fruit character). Po werful and firmly tannic on the finish. Today the Contender dances circles around the Heavyweight.