2019 Ceritas Cabernet Sauvignon Peter Martin Ray

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Peter Martin Ray Vineyard is outrageously great. Dark, virile and imposing, the 2019 offers up a heady mix of dark fruit, leather, incense, sage, violet and crushed autumn leaves. This savory, old-school Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet is fabulous. I also tasted the 2015, which is aging at a glacial pace. Although John Raytek is known for his Chardonnays and Pinots, his Cabernets are every bit as compelling.

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Peter Martin Ray, aged in 70% new 500-liter barrels, is forward with wet stone minerality, pencil shaving, fresh redcurrant, and floral perfume. The palate is compact and energetic, with its structure noted by crunchy red plum, cocoa powder, and rocky earth. Its angular tannins will benefit from a few years in bottle to develop. Drink 2025-2045. Helmed by founder John Raytek, Ceritas was established with their first vintage in 2005. Today there are 14 wines produced – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon – featuring historical sites that are dry farmed and poised to channel the style the team wants to create. Each of the sites are farmed organically, or biodynamically. Originally focusing solely on what is now the West Sonoma Coast, in 2011 they expanded their reach to the Santa Cruz Mountains, and most recently to Moon Mountain and Napa. In 2015, they moved into a new barrel room in Healdsburg, where they operate from today. Having had no investors or partners in the project, it allowed John and his team the freedom to experiment and to only bottle wines they wished to produce. From a winemaking perspective, they strive for minimal intervention in the cellar. Their oak selections are sourced from two coopers and utilize a light toast, from selections with a tight grain. The wines express a pure, focused style that will appeal to those who seek tension and precision.