2017 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

Bachelet's 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes is a magical young wine that entirely meets the high expectations I formed for it in barrel. Soaring from the glass with aromas of cassis, cherries, licorice, smoked meats, orange rind, incense and violets, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with superb concentration and disarmingly sweet, velvety tannins, concluding with a long and lively finish. This is a dramatic young Charmes that's already head-turning and will age with immense grace.

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is one of the most backward. I can remember tasting this wine from barrel over the last 15-odd years. Patience is needed. It gradually opens to reveal exquisitely defined blackberry, hawthorn and crushed stone aromas, hints of rose petal emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple and filigree tannin, perfectly judged acidity, the intensity flooding towards the back end with such effortlessly ease. This is yet another magnificent masterclass in Charmes-Chambertin courtesy of Bachelet and his century-old vines.

Eight barrels – a normal year. ‘One of the best Charmes I have ever made.’ Deep, dark, fresh but ripe black fruits. Blackberry not red fruits. Some peppery spice, and more oak sweetness on the palate though it is just 50% new. All tongue-tied at the moment but there’s a dark peppery fragrance trying to escape and giving scent on the palate. There’s chew in the tannins here but rounded and smooth and elegant. Power drives the length but is well hidden. Griottes cherry with the stone. (JH)