2011 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Savoy

(45% new oak): Bright ruby-red. Vibrant, seductive aromas of raspberry, candied rose, anise and smoky minerals. Intense, sharply focused cherry and red berry preserve flavors are brightened by a spicy nuance, picking up a floral pastille quality with aeration. The energetic finish repeats the red berry note and lingers on a sexy floral note. Taut, graceful pinot that smoothly blends power and finesse.

The 2011 Pinot Noir Savoy captures the best qualities of the vintage at Radio Coteau. Nothing is out of balance in this fragrant, high-toned Pinot. In 2011 the Savoy is all about silk and nuance. Sweet, red berries, freshly cut flowers, licorice and spices are all layered into the polished refined finish. This is another drop-dead gorgeous wine from Radio-Coteau. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578