2009 Carlisle Zinfandel Papera Ranch

The 2009 Zinfandel Papera Ranch is unique in that the vineyard was planted with 100% Zinfandel, which was quite unusual in 1934. Black cherries, plums, tobacco and new leather inform this plush, deeply satisfying Zinfandel. There is plenty of energy, depth and sheer power in the glass. Sweet candied notes are layered into the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a fabulous set of wines from Mike Officer and Carlisle. Best of all, the wines remain very reasonably priced considering the quality and passion that goes into the bottle. Along with Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock, Mike Officer is focused on seeking out the finest old-vine sites in California, which have either been neglected over the years, or are being bought by large-scale wineries who have little interest in discovering the quirks of these very old vineyards, most of which are planted with field blends that truly harken back to another era. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and aged in French oak barrels, usually in the 20-30% range. I tasted all of the 2010s from barrel the day before they were scheduled to be moved into tank. Tel. (707) 566-7700; www.carlislewinery.com

(16.2% alcohol): Opaque purple. Sexy aromas of blackberry, smoky herbs, rose oil and licorice are supported by a lively mineral undertone. Plush and expansive, with a pliant, silky texture to the intensely spicy black and blue fruit and violet pastille flavors. This shows excellent concentration and gets into every nook and cranny of the palate. Finishes sweet, with outstanding persistence and firm tannic grip, echoing the blue fruit note.