2004 Fèlsina Fontalloro

(100% sangiovese; 14% alcohol) Good full red with a palish rim. Pure, superripe aromas of red cherry, violet, iodine and nutmeg. Superrich, highly concentrated and seamless, with densely packed flavors of raspberry, dark plum and marzipan. Finishes creamy-rich and explosively long, with a pretty violet note. This was so good I really had trouble letting the glass go. It's also the only time I can remember Fontalloro outclassing Rancia (of which I am a huge fan) by such a wide margin, something I had noticed even when tasting barrel samples of these two wines in the estate's cellar two years ago. I'd wait a good five years on this one, then enjoy it for another two decades. Proof positive that sangiovese is one of the world's great grape varieties. (ID)

The 2004 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese) comes across as fresher and brighter than the Rancia. Light on its feet, this graceful, delicate wine opens with sweet, perfumed aromatics that meld into raspberries, flowers, spices and a touch of sweet oak that lingers on the finish. It offers remarkable clarity and precision in a pure, focused style, with superb balance and finessed tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina’s prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina’s second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

(100% sangiovese) Good full ruby. Richer and even more minerally on the nose than the '04 Rancia, offering plenty of orange zest, lily and pleasantly tart red cherry aromas. Lush, very ripe red fruit flavors and a salty edge give this immediate appeal, but make it a bit less refined than the Rancia in '04. The tannins, though, are smoother and slide effortlessly along the very long finish. (ID)