2010 Plumpjack Syrah Napa Valley

The 2010 Syrah is endowed with gorgeous varietal character. Black olives, tapenade, black pepper, chocolate, smoke and incense all take shape in this full-bodied, dense Syrah. Layers of deeply textured dark fruit build to the resonant, palate staining finish. Winemaker Tony Biagi used 30% whole clusters. The 2010 was made from fruit sourced from Hudson and Stagecoach vineyards. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The biggest news at Plumpjack is the departure of long-time winemaker Tony Biagi, who crafted a number of the finest wines to emerge from this gorgeous property in Oakville. Biagi is moving to Hourglass, which has needed more day-to-day attention for some time, while Plumpjack has installed an on-site winemaker for each of their three properties; Plumpjack, Cade and Odette, the company's new project in the Stags' Leap district. The new winemaker at Plumpjack is Aaron Miller, previously of Groth and Lewis. Companies evolve and people move on to new challenges. It happens. I have to say I have seen few, if any, wineries handle the first part of a transition like this with as much grace and intelligence as Plumpjack has. Tel. (707) 945-1220

The 2010 Syrah is notably better than the 2009. It possesses striking varietal character, with effortless layers of fruit, smoke, licorice and herbs that take shape in the glass. It is a gorgeous wine with a seemingly bright future.