2009 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir La Neblina

The 2009 Pinot Noir La Neblina is a delicious entry-level wine. Sweet dark cherries, flowers, hard candies and savory herbs all jump from the glass. The aromas and flavors all have superb intensity. A relatively easygoing wine, the 2009 La Neblina has lovely balance and plenty of overall harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2024. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

Bright ruby. Sexy, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, cherry and minerals. Juicy, penetrating and precise, with a silky texture and lovely purity to its red fruit and floral pastille flavors. Finishes with admirable length and focus and lingering notes of smoky minerals and spicecake. Offers a compelling combination of power and finesse and has the depth to age.