2019 Donelan Syrah Judge Vineyard

The 2019 Syrah Judge Vineyard is classy and polished right out of the gate. Black cherry, gravel, cured meat, spice and a good dose of cool-climate savoriness all run through this super-expressive, layered Syrah. The 40% stems add a ton of aromatic presence. There are some wilder edges here, but, as always, the Judge Syrah is a wine of notable pedigree.

Coming from a rocky, western-facing slope in the Bennett Valley with more direct exposure to the sun (although overall it’s one of the coolest temperature sites the Donelans source from), the 2019 Syrah Judge Vineyard is a highly expressive and savory wine with polished leather, red plum, smoke, pressed cardamom, and mocha aromas. Full-bodied, with coating richness, it’s packed with mouth-filling blackberry preserves, molasses, and a lavender perfume that lingers on the palate after the wine is gone. Long on the finish, with a refine, polished structure and a velvety texture, drink it 2025-2040. Joe Donelan came to the wine world after he received what he calls “a life-changing education” from a sommelier on Nantucket in the 1980s. Today he is joined by his two sons, Tripp and Cushing, who oversee sales and marketing respectively. David Milner has been the head winemaker since 2017 after previously working at Groth and Eisele Vineyard. Donelan himself has worked with the Obsidian Vineyard in Knights Valley since 2001 and was able to purchase the site in 2015. Sadly, in 2017, the vineyard fell victim to that year’s fires, but they have since put a new emphasis on replanting with greater vine density. The style of the estate certainly does not shy away from ripeness, although they are wines with finesse and elegance. I am especially a fan of the wines they’re producing in the cooler Bennett Valley. The wines for this report were tasted at their Santa Rosa winery in May.