2007 Domaine François Bertheau Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Raspberry and cherry with their distilled Doppelganger; pistachio and almond extract; medicinal herbal essences; and quarry dust constitute the aromatic and palate complexity of Bertheau’s 2007 Bonnes Mares. A marrow-like sense of meaty richness emerges as it takes on air, and hints of fruit pit as well as abundant fine tanning lend a (for the vintage) surprising but not unwelcome note of austerity to an impressively long finish. Expect this to be worth following for the better part of a decade. Francois Bertheau’s tendency toward rendering frisky, sharply-etched and sharp-edged Pinot was practically bound to be accentuated by 2008 vintage character, and the quality of results varied considerably by appellation. Asked which of 2007 and 2008 were more challenging, Bertheau answered, in English, “fifty-fifty,” but this is one address where I found the softer, riper, if relatively diffuse personality of the former vintage more satisfying. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524