2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard is gorgeous. Black cherries, menthol, spices, violets wrap around the palate in this sensual, alluring wine. Here the aromas and flavors tend towards the dark, sepia-toned end of the spectrum. The Koplen is layered, complete and totally beautiful. There is an element of gravitas that is particularly appealing. The Koplen was partially vinified in wood uprights, with 18% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Kosta Browne is one of the great American success stories of the last decade. The story begins when longtime friends Dan Kosta and Michael Browne discover a shared passion for Pinot Noir while working together at a local restaurant. They start with a tiny amount of homemade Pinot Noir, grow gradually, acquire some financing along the way, work their tails off and one day the mailing list requires a five year wait for the vineyard designated wines. Of course I am simplifying, but Kosta Browne is the type of entrepreneurial success that can only happen in this country. Over the years, as the winemaking approach has developed, the wines have become much more finessed than they used to be. Toast levels have come down. Some lots are fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems promising based on the wines I tasted. A number of the wines were fermented with whole clusters, as noted below. The Kosta-Browne Pinots are notable for their exuberant fruit. The wines are incredibly attractive when young, which is when I prefer to drink them. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Bright violet. Perfumed array of red and dark berry and floral qualities, along with notes of allspice and incense. A sexy floral note comes up with air and carries onto the palate, which offers sweet raspberry and cherry-cola flavors and a hint of succulent herbs. Doesn't let up on the finish, which echoes the raspberry note and shows wonderful intensity.