2004 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

(a moderate 13.6% alcohol): Healthy full medium ruby. Very primary aromas of blackberry, violet, bitter chocolate, licorice, wild herbs and spicecake. Juicy and intense, offering excellent energy and lift to its tightly wound dark berry flavors. Not a fleshy style--in fact a touch herbal--but boasts lovely verve and excellent subtle length. Youthfully tight tannins still need time to unwind.

Bright, full ruby-red. Deep aromas of ripe plum, chocolate and fresh tobacco, with hints of menthol and sweet butter; smells very Old World. Round, lush and sweet for a Corison cabernet, with heady inner-mouth perfume of cassis and flowers. Builds nicely on the back end, which displays fine tannins but not quite the tension or grip of the '05. Still a touch of acidity to be absorbed--in fact, this wine lost some freshness with extended time in the glass and became a bit more disjointed. Probably best consumed in the next five years or so.

...whereas Cathy Corison has barely to whisper [compared to Patrick Campbell’s Laurel Glen Estate Cab Sav 2004 ]. Very dark crimson. Then lovely spreading gorgeousness with fine tannins and apparent Cabernet Franc refreshment effect on the palate yet mellow, fully ripe HAPPY fruit. Great balance. This is not desperately intense or hot or massive or tannic, it’s just so gentle and harmonious. A fine riposte to high alcohol Cabs. (JR)