2004 Seavey Cabernet Sauvignon

Bright medium ruby. Expressive nose combines redcurrant, mocha, iron, spices and dried flowers. Sweet and plush, offering lovely depth of texture to its licorice, tobacco and graphite flavors, with elements of roasted fruits, aromatic spices and dried flowers emerging with air. Not hugely sweet but comes across as quite powerful. Finishes with big, broad, sweet, palate-dusting tannins and lovely length

Philippe Melka oversees Seavey’s vinification and elevage, and the 2004 is another spectacular wine from this Conn Valley hillside vineyard. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was aged 19 months in French oak, of which 50% was new. Melka has always said the key to understanding the Seavey vineyard is to tame what can be relatively robust and aggressive tannins. This spectacular 2004 is performing better now than I remember it in its youth. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by lots of charred earth and a Graves-like hot rock character, cassis, earth, spice and truffle notes. This full-bodied classic is beginning to drink well, which is unusual for a young Seavey. I’m still enjoying my 1990 and 1991 Seaveys! This full-bodied, powerful, rich as well as civilized and, dare I say, elegant beauty will drink well for 15-20 years. This is one of the great, unheralded, under-the-radar terroirs in all of Napa Valley. Tel. (707) 963-8339; Fax (707) 963-0232

Good deep ruby. Currant, violet, minerals, iron, brown spices and a whiff of menthol on the nose. Dense but vinous, with good energy to the black fruit, chocolate and mocha flavors. In a rather backward, powerful style; not particularly generous today but not spiky either. Finishes with a serious tannic spine. This 100%-cabernet wine from loamy clay over rock appears to be closing down and will require a good five to seven years of cellaring.