2005 Kapcsàndy Merlot State Lane Vineyard Roberta's Reserve

Dark red with ruby highlights. Musky aromas of black cherry, plum, iron, crushed herbs and licorice, with some suggestions of very ripe fruit. Sweet, fat and rich; plummy and mouthfilling but without quite the clarity or lift of subsequent vintages. Showing a slight balsamic quality but not oxidative. The rather plush, granular tannins are more resolved than those of the 2006 but still give the finish a dusty edge--as well as good punch. Kapcsándy added an "Estate Cuvée" blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in 2005, which at the time was essentially a second wine. (14.5% alcohol; 100% new French oak)

(14.5% alcohol): Dark red. Dark berries, licorice, minerals, chocolate, iron and flowers on the almost exotic nose. Thick, silky and seamless, offering highly concentrated flavors of blackberry, spices and flowers. This plush wine has buns of steel. Finishes with big but utterly suave tannins and outstanding building length. This amazing California Merlot boasts terrific inner-mouth energy and lift.

The Merlot-dominated cuvée (91% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc), the 2005 Proprietary Roberta’s Reserve, remains and was – even 10 years ago – a tiny cuvée of only 240 cases, with the Merlot coming from a vein of heavy clay on their vineyard. An inky purple color offers up notes of white chocolate, mocha, espresso roast, blackcurrants and black cherries. Full-bodied and opulent, it is a beautifully, lush, succulent, generously endowed wine that can be drunk now as well as over the next 12-15 years.