2010 Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru
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Note di degustazione
The 2010 Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge has an engaging spicy, peppery nose while the palate is vibrant with crisp tannins and displays greater focus than its white namesake this year. Crunchy red fruit in the mouth with a long spicy finish that leaves the mouth tingling. This is an excellent Beaune in possession of the backbone to age. Drink 2014-2022+ It is always a pleasure to meet Veronique Drouhin, although this was actually the first time that I had visited their winery on the southern fringe of Beaune. “All the estate has been under biodynamic practices since the mid-1990s (including Chablis) and organic since 1988,” she said to me as we commenced the tasting. “We have been ECOCERT certified since 2009.” I asked her what tangible difference biodynamics have made. “The estate wines have a lot of depth and energy but what is really better is the pH,” she said. She also cited the arrival of head winemaker Jerome Faure-Brac in 2005 as another reason for the improvement in quality. Now their approach is for no compromise on the fruit and to exact precise viticulture for each vineyard. Veronique told me that their entry level Laforet aims to encapsulate the whole picture of Bourgogne. “We know the wine is consumed young so it is not heavily extracted,” she told me. “We look for a lovely fruity, round, elegant Bourgogne. You know, it is easier to make an Amoureuses than a Burgundy Rouge because of the quantity. It is aged in older barrels and it is bottled sooner than in the past.” Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
Punteggi della critica
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Moderately saturated bright medium red. Pretty aromas of red raspberry, flowers and crushed stone. Juicy and very pure but youthfully imploded, with a penetrating minerality contributing to the impression of inner-mouth tension. Lovely delicacy and finesse here. The very long, sappy, echoing finish perks up the taste buds. Still a baby, and wonderfully light on its feet.
The 2010 Beaune Clos des Mouches, one of the Drouhin's flagships, is impossibly young. It needs several years, at a minimum, to shed some of its baby fat. Clos des Mouches has a great track record of aging, and while I rarely take the risk of cellaring white Burgundy these days, if I were to cellar a handful of 2010 whites, Clos des Mouches would be one of my choices. Today, it is the wine's exceptional textural elegance and precise, saline minerality that make the deepest impression.
Informazioni sul produttore
Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest and most famous producers in Burgundy, making both domaine and négociant wines. It remains family-owned and run, now in the hands of the fourth generation.