2003 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa Valley

Montelena’s Chardonnays have always been non-malolactic, elegant, steely efforts with good acidity and, in some vintages, a remarkable aging potential of 15-20 years. My favorite over the last 5-7 vintages may be the 2003 Chardonnay, which boasts a rich lemon custard-like nose with hints of green apples, white currants, pears, and peaches. The wine is vibrant, full-bodied, and surprisingly rich with a vivaciousness and zesty acidity that provide a laser-like precision and freshness. It should drink well for 7-8 years, possibly longer. At the end of my tastings, Bo Barrett opened a 1986 Montelena (rated 94), and it is still incredibly young, rich, vibrant, and full-bodied. It is a terrific expression of Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon made by a master. It appears to have another 20-25 years of aging potential. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221

Fresh aromas of pear, apple, mint, flowers and minerals. Sweet and full but bright and youthful, with good citrus and spice intensity and an absence of rough edges. Still, this is a bit less penetrating and minerally than the 2002, which winemaker Barrett describes as "less heat-driven." Barrett is now harvesting his chardonnay fruit at night, pressing whole clusters to get more volume in the wine, and moving the wine from tank to barrel without any filtration.