2010 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard

In this vintage the 2010 Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard is one of the more immediate wines in the lineup. It has plenty of fruit and depth, but not quite the complexity or layered personality of the very best wines in the Rhys lineup. Today it comes across as a bit one-dimensional, with pure power reigning over all else.

In this vintage, the 2010 Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard is one of the more immediate wines in the lineup. It has plenty of fruit and depth, but not quite the complexity or layered personality of the very best wines in the Rhys lineup. Today it comes across as a bit one-dimensional, with pure power reigning over all else. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Proprietor Kevin Harvey and his team, led by winemaker Jeff Brinkman, have received quite a bit of attention of late. They deserve every bit of it, if not more. Harvey has spared no expense in building a state of the art facility, which includes 100 one-ton fermenters that allow for multiple small lot fermentations. In the vineyard, Harvey has taken the type of risks only someone with a background in early stage technology investing could stomach. The result is a series of breathtaking wines, Pinots especially, that are among the finest being made in the United States. I am quite sure Harvey’s goals are much more ambitious than that, though. It will be interesting to see how things play out at Rhys over the coming years, but there is no question these are exciting, compelling wines of the highest level. My experience with the Rhys Pinots is that they develop very slowly in bottle, so readers need to exercise a bit more patience than is typically required with California Pinot Noir. Like most estates in 2010, Rhys grappled with the September heat spikes, which took place during the harvest. The Home and Family Farm were brought in before the spikes, as was 80% of Alpine, Horseshoe and Bearwallow. Rhys had a harder time with Skyline, which came in after the spikes. Ultimately, only 25% of that fruit made it into the fermentation tanks. Tel. (866) 511-1520; www.rhysvineyards.com

Dark ruby. Exotic, intensely perfumed black raspberry and cherry aromas are complemented by cola, star anise and licorice. Juicy, impressively precise dark fruit flavors are lifted by tangy acidity and a slow-building blood orange quality. At once supple and lithe, finishing with outstanding energy and an array of dark berry and floral nuances. (ST)