1978 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

There was one younger wine. The 1978 La Mission Haut-Brion is one of the best wines of that decade and did not disappoint. Still youthful and dark in hue, it has that wonderful bouquet of blackberries, gravel and black olive, here displaying a heightened marine/Japanese nori scent. The palate is medium-bodied with dense black fruit, melted tar and pencil lead, a La Mission that responds to aeration as it gains depth and grip, whilst maintaining outstanding delineation. It still comes across quite sweet on the finish, testifying a La Mission that intends to give pleasure for many years to come.

The 1978 La Mission Haut-Brion is a candidate for the greatest Bordeaux wines produced during the 1970s. Without question, it is the highlight of the vintage. I have tasted it several times over the years and each time, my appreciation is heightened further. Still youthful in appearance, the bouquet soars from the glass with almost high-toned blackberry, cigar humidor, warm gravel and that signature trait of black olive. You could nose this all day. The palate is medium-bodied yet there is much more density than you will find on other 1978s. Notes of black fruit, bay leaf, graphite and earthy tones, the latter emphasized with aeration. Decanting is strongly advised because it responds to a long opening, deepening all the time, developing a sustained cedar tincture that lingers in the mouth. It is a fabulous La Mission Haut-Brion that at 40-years continues to give so much pleasure. Tasted at a private dinner in London (ex-château bottle).

Fine boned and sleek. Rich and fresh. Long and energetic. (JR)