1994 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

The 1994 La Mission Haut-Brion is the dark horse of the decade and may well surpass modest expectations. The bouquet has opened up in recent years to offer appealing tobacco- and cedar-infused black fruit, demonstrating more vigor than any vintage since the late 1980s. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and predominantly black fruit, again laced with tobacco and cedar, and it conveys a sense of correctness. A classic Pessac-Léognan without flair, yet somehow that forms part of its charm. Tasted over lunch at La Trompette in London.

This vintage again demonstrates what an extraordinary terroir La Mission-Haut-Brion possesses. It was not an easy year, with rain, flowering issues and uncooperative weather in the critical months of August and September, but the vineyard’s superb drainage and La Mission’s ability to produce fascinating aromatics even in difficult vintages triumphs again. Classic Graves aromas of charcoal, scorched earth, red and black fruits, truffles, graphite and melted tar emerge from this dark garnet/plum-colored 1994. In the mouth, there is some angularity and rustic tannins remaining, but they are not out of balance. With medium to full body as well as more depth than many of its peers, the wine appears to be close to full maturity. However, with this level of acidity and tannin, it is not likely to fall apart any time soon. Anticipated maturity: now-2025.