2004 Château Lynch-Bages

The 2004 Lynch-Bages is clean and well-defined on the nose with focused black fruit, cedar, mint and light star anis aromas, gaining intensity constantly in the glass. Not as conservative as other Left Banks in this vintage. The palate is ripe and opulent with licorice-infused black fruit, candied orange peel, brown spices and sage. There's fine grip with a slightly "blocky" finish that needs to show a tad more elegance. Tasted at the Lynch-Bages vertical at the château.

The 2004 Lynch Bages, which contains 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest thus far, has a refined bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, orange rind and light graphite scents, holding up very nicely after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly lactic entry, finely balanced with a keen line of acidity and a dash of black pepper towards the finish. It's not long, but there is plenty of sapidity here. Drink over the next decade.

Inky rich damson with edges of russet and a curl of campfire smoke. This is elegant and balanced, juicy cassis, damson puree and bilberry fruits. There is a generosity to the structure, with concentration through the palate, with plenty of firm Pauillac tannins and finesse. An excellent 2004 that also delivered high yields of around 57hl/h (the full AOC allowance), and yet is still going strong, proof of how much natural intensity there is on these soils. 60% new oak.