1996 Château Lynch-Bages

The 1996 Lynch-Bages is showing some bricking on the rim. It seems fully mature on the nose with blurred red fruit, autumn leaves and undergrowth. A light ferrous scent emerges with time, later a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little dry and austere, and fine acidity, but I feel this needs more fruit in the second half. Brown spices and tobacco dominate the finish, which lacks a bit of length and flesh. Tasted blind at the Lynch Bages vertical at the château and also sighted from double-magnum.

Deep plum in colour, holding its Pauillac character perfectly at 25 years old, opening up to show cedar, pencil shavings, tobacco, graphite, cassis and touches of raspberry purée. This is very much in the drinking window, with waves of camphor, charcoal, woodsmoke and tobacco adding complexity and interest. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend.

The 1996 Lynch Bages has a delightful fresh, minty bouquet that does not quite deliver the complexity of recent vintages, nicely perfumed with hints of wilted rose petal developing with time. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, fresh from the start with blackcurrant pastilles, a touch of tobacco with a tightly coiled, minerally, slightly sharp finish that perhaps just needs a little more depth. I appreciate that lingering pencil lead note on the aftertaste, completing a solid if unspectacular Lynch Bages. It's the kind of Pauillac I would grab from a restaurant list at the right price. A point. Tasted July 2016.