2004 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

One has to go back to 1984 to find as tiny a crop for Spottswoode as the 2004. The extreme heat and subsequent early harvest caused some problems that year, but the quality was extremely high, although there wasn’t much of it – only 1,532 cases were made. The wine, a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc came in at 14.4% natural alcohol. The wine is spectacular and falls right into my observations when I did the 2004 Northern California retrospective several years ago. Only 30% of the crop was actually used in this extremely hot vintage. Loads of big, sweet, floral-infused blackberry and cassis fruit are present in this wine, which is multidimensional, has magnificent intensity, terrific unctuousness, in a very Château Margaux style, despite the conditions under which is was produced. There is an elegance and fragrance, yet power allied to full body that is striking. This wine, while on a relatively rapid evolutionary track, should hit its peak in another 3-5 years and last 20-25.

Deep red-ruby. Very primary aromas of dark berries, cherry pit, dried flowers, tobacco, potpourri and mocha are accented by pepper and eucalyptus. Lovely peppery lift carries through onto the palate, which shows less baby fat than the 2002 but is still very rich, thick, concentrated and long, with very smooth tannins. Reveals some very rich chocolate and coffee notes but harmonious acidity gives the palate shape and verve. (ST)

Very aromatic, floral and youthful, with a smoky, slight carbonic aroma. Graham cracker, black plum, mulberry and creamy vanilla coat the palate, and the tannins are substantial yet integrated. It’s sumptuous now, yet will certainly improve with cellaring. This is proof that Napa Cabernet Sauvignon can be pleasurably rich in fruit and plush texture, along with solid structure, refreshing acidity and age-worthiness. (LM) $110