1996 Echezeaux

If the wine I tasted out of barrel is bottled without losing its extraordinary fruit and precision (i.e. little fining or filtration), it will be a blockbuster. Dark ruby-colored and exhibiting copious quantities of sweet dark fruits, violets, and traces of minerals, this wine is magnificently defined, elegant, and feminine. An intense, juicy, and fabulously pure core of candied cherries, plums, blueberries, and flowers can be found in this full-bodied, velvety, and admirably long wine. Projected maturity: 2003-2009+. Bravo! Recently a subscriber called and expressed disappointment that there were never any new names among the producers of stupendous red Burgundies. I pointed out to him that new stars could be found in almost every issue of The Wine Advocate, most notably Claude Dugat, Bernard Dugat, Hubert Lignier, Chopin-Groffier, Ambroise, and Cacheux, and that Burgundy is filled with young wine-makers yearning to become known as the best producer in their village. I was specifically thinking of this wine. The Domaine des Perdrix, recently purchased by Bertrand Devillard (the director of Maison Antonin Rodet) and his wife, markets its wines through Rodet's sales network. I was impressed with the estate's 1996s. The dazzling Echezeaux is one of the finest examples I have tasted from that grand cru vineyard. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, Ltd., Armonk, NY; tel (914) 273-1221; fax (914) 273-1291, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.