2010 Chardonnay Sonoma County

(14.5% alcohol): Bright straw-yellow. High-pitched perfume of baked apple, lime zest, dusty oak spices, lavender and crushed stone, plus a whiff of Calvados. Broad, silky and mouthfilling but with a light touch and lovely perfume to the flavors of citrus pith, minerals, nutmeg and flowers. This dry, very young chardonnay manages to excite the palate without leaving any impression of weight. Finishes subtle, smooth and very long, with impressive aromatic carry-through on the end. Shows no edges today but I'd cellar this for at least a few years to allow it to express itself more fully. A superb vintage for this bottling.