2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard

Deep ruby. Raspberry liqueur, candied flowers, anise and vanilla on the deeply scented nose. Becomes more energetic with air, picking up a bitter cherry quality and a touch of white pepper. Supple tannins come on late and add shape and focus to the wine's plush, lingering fruit.

Even better and showing a similar polished, elegant profile, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Boisrenard is a blend of 60% Grenache, and the rest a blend of all permitted grape varieties, that spent 18 months in 1- to 5-year-old barrels. Possessing thrilling notes of black raspberry, vanilla, licorice and crushed flowers on the nose, it flows onto the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, solid overall concentration, good acidity and sweet, silky tannin. Relatively approachable, especially by this cuvee’s standards, it can be consumed now or cellared for a decade. Drink now-2023. Made by brothers Frederic and Daniel Coulon, this estate produces two cuvees in both red and white: a traditional cuvee and a more modern-styled cuvee Boisrenard. The traditional cuvees – both red and white – see larger format aging (tank and foudre) while the cuvee Boisrenard sees more barrel aging and comes from the older vines of the estate. Both the 2011s and 2012s reviewed here appear to be more refined and elegant than past vintages, with an emphasis on fine tannin, purity and freshness. Importers: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin; Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100 and Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007

Opaque ruby. Vibrant, mineral- and spice-accented aromas and flavors of red fruits and floral pastilles, with a suave vanilla nuance in the background. Fleshy and smooth but lithe and precise, finishing with excellent clarity and lingering lavender and red berry notes.