2009 La Proportion Doree

Luc Morlet’s 2009 Proportion Doree (Semillon/Sauvignon) is a rich, textured white laced with expressive yellow stone fruits, mango, tangerine and mint. It shows gorgeous inner perfume and lovely overall balance. Despite its richness, there is no sense of heaviness whatsoever. As good as this is today, it really is a wine that needs bottle age to acquire the full breadth of its complexity, especially in the aromatics. The Proportion Doree is made with just one cluster per shoot, with the wings and shoulders cut off. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup. Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com

(a blend of 64% semillon, 34% sauvignon blanc and 2% muscadelle): Captivating aromas and flavors of lemon, lime, lichee, honeysuckle and menthol, along with an intriguing saline nuance. Then sweet, lush and fat, with harmonious acidity and notes of citrus peel and herbs giving shape and lift to the middle palate. Wonderfully creamy, deep wine with a smooth, very long finish. Luc Morlet will hold back 100 cases of this to release a few years down the road, but he told me he'd really like to taste it after 20 years.