2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Tenuta Greppo

The Biondi-Santi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva saw its fruit harvested after warm end-of-summer winds dried the fruit after rains. It resulted in fruit with extra pulp and thinner skins. This Riserva has a medium-plus body and delivers generous aromas of dark cherry, underbrush, potting soil and sweet spice. Its structure remains fine and the alcohol content is a very contained 13.3%. The wine is essentially elegant and fine with a slightly rounder or soft fruit profile that cedes to bright freshness and a long, polished finish.

Bottle number 04785. Mid ruby. Open cherry-fruit nose with hints of tobacco leaf, but much more complex than it sounds. Really opens up with aeration. Much more embryonic on the palate with tight cherry and raspberry fruit and a layer of beautiful, finely sculpted tannins. Long, cool red-fruit-focused finish. Can be approached now, while the next day the wine was fully open and ready. (WS)

Deeper, darker and more sensual than the Annata, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva entices with a whiff of lavender and sage before giving way to dried cherry, cedar dust, worn leather and spice. It's surprisingly lifted and finessed, with a salty core of savory minerals to offset its ripe wild berry fruits. A jolt of stimulating acidity maintains harmony throughout. It finishes with admirable length and a saline character, leaving hints of licorice that fade slowly. Despite the growing season, the 2018 comes across as a classic in the making, showing the structure and balance required throughout to promote cellaring. Sadly, production totaled only 8,000 bottles.