1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Gravelly Meadow

The 1991 Gravelly Meadow, is the most backward of the 1991s, with less evolution in its attractive, spicy, earthy, elegant nose. Its medium-bodied flavors exhibit moderate tannins and clean, earthy, ripe, sweet fruit. It should be at its best in 2-3 years and last for 10-12. I expected the 1990 and 1991 Cabernets from Diamond Creek to perform better. While they are certainly good, they are much lighter than what one has come to expect from this winery. On several occasions recently I have had the 1978s from Diamond Creek, which are among the greatest Cabernet-based wines I have tasted from anywhere in the world. It is hard to believe these current offerings will ever approach the richness and intensity that this estate's wines exhibited from the seventies to the mid-eighties. Could the wines be going through a temporarily awkward stage, or are they being made in a lighter, more easily accessible style? Given the relatively poor performance of these six wines, and my previous admiration for Diamond Creek Cabernets, I am as mystified as anyone as to what direction this property is headed.