2006 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes

Representing a blend of fruit from Les Gamaires (which was hailed-on), Les Brazey, and a smidgeon of premier cru Sentiers – all of these toward Morey – the Lignier-Michelot 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes presents dominant impressions of ripe dark cherry and black raspberry; resin; and salty beef bouillon. Depth of fruit and meatiness by no means preclude brightness, and this brings a lot of refreshment and energy into its persistent finish. The tannins are well integrated and the feel quite polished, up to the point of a slight catch or roughness in the finish, but that might be temporary. I suspect this will be worth following for 4-6 years. A premier cru cuvee from purchased fruit bottled under the "Virgile Lignier" was far less convincing. Virgile Lignier shared the surprise expressed by many growers at how steadily the 2006s improved in the course of their elevage. He experienced only a 15% drop in net yield vis-a-vis 2005, noting that most of the fruit he discarded was what had suffered from hail rather than succumbed to rain and rot. Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70