2006 Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes

The Bizot 2006 Vosne-Romanee Vieilles Vignes – like his simplest Vosne, originating in parcels east of the village – continues the confectionary cast of that bottling, here with dark cherry, vanilla, caramel, and resin predominating. Musky floral notes and brown spices add Vosne-typical allure. As in the basic bottling, a tart edge to the fruit helps alleviate the impression of sweetness and also serves for some invigoration in an impressively clinging finish. This boasts more substantiality, but at the same time a bit of the charm that comes from polish and buoyancy is lost, and the oak needs to integrate. I would try holding this for 2-3 years and then plan on a comparable period of enjoyment. Jean-Yves Bizot's wines characteristically strive for elegance and finesse, although his use of 100% new wood (albeit often in 350 liter capacity) can in my experience sometimes place a questionable burden on their often delicate fruit and frame. The wines are bottled directly from cask, barrel-by barrel, with very low dosages of sulfur, so they must be carefully stored, and there will be variation among wines that bear the same label. Unsurprisingly, Bizot claimed to have backed off on his already gentle fermentative regimen to encourage what he saw as the inherently graceful virtues of 2006. None of the wines were chaptalized (unlike in 2007) and none exceeds 12.5% alcohol. Bizot, incidentally, has reached and is apparently able to sustain for his tiny production some of the highest prices I have seen anywhere in Burgundy for non-premier cru wines. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524