2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain

(15% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Rather cool aromas of dark fruits, violet, licorice and Christmas spices. Suave, fine-grained and deep but not at all outsized, conveying a hint of exotic fruits but also the energy of a cooler year; a bit high-toned in the context of this group. Doesn't offer the size or volume of some more recent vintages but I like the wine's restrained sweetness--and it's not at all short on concentration. Finishes tactile, chewy and youthfully tight, with obvious tannic backbone and excellent length. This, too, appears to be passing through a rather closed phase. "Two thousand nine was a cold vintage for us, while 2008 was hot," said Capiaux.

(aged in about 75% new oak; includes 7% malbec, 5% merlot, 5% petit verdot, 5% St. Macaire and 2% cabernet franc): Good deep bright ruby. Expressive but cool nose offers cassis, violet and mint. Suave, concentrated and spicy, with licorice, mineral and oak flavors currently holding the upper hand over the wine's fruit flavors. The first tannins show some youthful toughness and will require at least five years of patience.

(no carmenere in the 2009 blend; this had been racked into tank the week before my visit): Deep ruby-red. Very pure aromas of crushed cassis, blackberry, violet, licorice and sexy oak; fruitier than the 2008. A pure, brambly fruit bomb on the palate, conveying a strong impression of mountain intensity. Lively integrated acidity and firm tannins give this very long wine terrific cut.