2015 Gimmeldinger Schlossel Rieslaner Spatlese

After a year in which there wasn’t even enough fruit hanging in this parcel to justify separate vinification, it’s nice, at least in principle, to see a Schlössel Rieslaner return, even though this one slightly disappoints. Muskmelon, passion fruit, lychee, pineapple and persimmon collaborate in a distinctive and colorful mélange that penetrates the nasal passages and practically stings as it hits the palate. Tactilely nipping and glowing clove and cinnamon accentuate the unusual evocation of Gewürztraminer, and green herbal extracts highlight the hint of Sauvignon, while musky, sweaty animal notes supply a mildly awkward intrigue. This finishes like clove-infused muskmelon liqueur. Rieslaner’s infamously high acidity – which is, analytically speaking, present – doesn’t manage to restrain this wine’s unabashedly overt, somewhat superficial sweetness. I’m sure it will live for a long time, though to what extent it will become more refined and at what point its sweetness will begin to back off, I can’t predict.