2002 Jean Milan Terres de Noel

The 2002 Brut Selection Terres de Noel provides a fascinating foil to the Symphorine in that it is made from a single parcel containing the estate’s oldest vines. This is a big, full-bodied wine imbued with notable personality in its expression of site. There is superb integrity of fruit, yet the powerful style has been achieved while retaining the intense minerality that is the hallmark of the Milan wines. In some way the Terres de Noel is less complex and subtle than then Symphorine, yet in other ways it remains equally compelling juice. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Milan, a small, family-run property based in Oger. Milan works exclusively with Chardonnay, most of which comes from estate-owned vineyards although a small amount of fruit is purchased from outside sources. These are fine, artisan Champagnes of the highest level. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Pale gold. Explosively perfumed, exotic bouquet of citrus fruits, pungent flowers, toasted nuts, lees, smoky minerals and sweet butter; this smells like a top-notch Meursault. Sappy, palate-staining orange, floral and mineral flavors combine richness and energy, with excellent back-end lift and cut. A strikingly pure wine that finishes with mounting spiciness and a long echo of minerals. Put this away for a long sleep. .

(disgorged February 22, 2007) Bright straw. Spiced pear and quince aromas are underscored by dusty minerality and citrus zest. Intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors offer serious depth and cut, with a crackling mineral quality extending through the finish. I love the clarity here.