1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Cedres

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape (a blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Cinsault) exhibits an evolved dark plum/garnet color, soft, ripe berry and kirsch liqueur notes, good pepper and spice, medium to full body, and a straightforward, easy-going finish. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Deep red. Liqueur-like aromas of redcurrant, mint, mocha, garrigue and leather. Thick and lush but nicely focused and penetrating. Spicy and long on the back end, with the supple, well-buffered tannins spreading over the tongue. Jaboulet has produced an excellent set of Southern Rhone wines in '98.