1998 Gevrey Chambertin Au Velle

Bright full ruby. Superripe yet utterly primary aromas of blackberry and licorice; less animal than Mortet's '98 Gevrey-Chambertin Combes de Dessus. Tightly wound and very intensely flavored; penetrating and powerful for village wine. Finishes long and subtle, with powerful but ripe tannins. Should develop slowly in bottle. "These 'cold soils' have a tendency to yield tough wines," says winemaker Denis Mortet, which is why he harvests here as late as possible; in '98, he finished on Saturday, September 26, just as the rain began.