2011 Chardonnay Ellen Lane Estate Vineyard

Very Chablis-like, with a minerally, stony character is the light greenish/gold-colored 2011 Chardonnay Ellen Lane Estate (formerly known as Walker Station). Dry, crisp and stony, with white currant, citrus oil and apple blossom characteristics, this medium-bodied beauty can be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Paul Hobbs has built quite an empire, both as a worldwide respected wine consultant and as the owner of his winery in Sonoma Valley. I reviewed his Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon cuvees in Issue 209, and on this visit I tasted through his 2011 and 2012 Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as a few Syrahs. His wines consistently hit all the high notes, and Hobbs continues to be a serious talent. I particularly enjoy his Cross Barn, inexpensive Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 2011 Chardonnays range from tiny productions of 138 cases for the Ulises Valdez to 3,600 for the Russian River Chardonnay. The 2012s all reveal the tremendous up-front fruit characteristics of this year along with surprisingly high average alcohols, and good fresh acids. Paul Hobbs has introduced two Cross Barn Pinot Noir cuvees, one from the Sonoma Coast and one from Anderson Valley. These wines use a tiny bit of stems during their fermentations, and spend four months in barrel, 15% of which is new. Tasting through these same cuvees in 2012 demonstrated just how gorgeous this vintage is across the board in Northern California. Tel. (707) 824-9879

More exuberant than the Tyler Dierberg. From the heart of Russian River but more gravel and clay loam. Barrel fermented then 15 months in oak, 60% new wood, plenty of stirring. Spontaneous malo. Unfined and unfiltered. Honeyed nose. Rich, creamy, honeyed, much fatter than most in this flight but still fresh. A very different style that still has a significant market, apparently. Buttery and sweet tasting. Long and obviously smart but a bit too fat and rich for me. Plenty of oak flavour. Tastes a little old fashioned in the context of current changes in style. (JH)

The 2011 Chardonnay Ellen Lane Estate jumps from the glass with exuberant fruit complemented by the high acidity of the year. The Ellen Lane stands out for its pure energy and vibrancy. A wine of notable tension and energy, the Ellen Lane impresses for its focus and drive.