2008 Coeur de Vallee Cabernet Sauvignon

Classically balanced vintage, and now at 14 years this is a perfect moment to drink, walking the line of savoury sculpted tannins, blond tobacco, truffle and mouthwatering acidities alongside bright berry fruits. 85% new oak, native yeast fermentation, bottled unfined and unfiltered.

(15.8% alcohol; from the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard): Bright medium ruby. Very rich, chocolatey aromas of cassis, dark plum, sweet oak spices, tobacco and graphite. A lush, large-scaled, slightly aggressive fruit bomb, with obviously high alcohol and suggestions of exotic, port-like roasted dark fruits and molten chocolate. Large-scaled, chocolatey, very rich wine but a bit monolithic: today I don't find the class of the (Beckstoffer) To Kalon Vineyard. Finishes with broad, dusty, palate-saturating tannins and noteworthy length. Fans of the style will rate this higher than I did.

(15.8% alcohol; from Beckstoffer To Kalon vineyard, pruned to one shoot per cluster): Multidimensional nose combines black cherry, graphite, licorice, bitter chocolate and espresso lifted by flowers and exotic spices. Lush, seamless and superconcentrated, with a slight fruit compote aspect but enough acidity to give it life. Finishes with building but suave tannins and outstanding length. This should be long-lived but it won't hurt your mouth today. From my memory, this is fruitier than the 2007 was at the same stage of its life in bottle.