2009 Horseshoe Vineyard Chardonnay

The 2009 Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard emerges from the glass with layers of sweet fruit supported by the clean vibrancy that is the hallmark of the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is an attractive, layered wine made in fairly forward, fruit-driven style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Inspired by a love for Burgundy, proprietor Kevin Harvey has set his sights on making top-flight Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Pinots in particular are exceptional for their sheer personality, but I also think the wines could also prove to be some of the most long-lived Pinots from California because of their minerality and structure. I tasted a wide range of wines with Harvey and winemaker Jeff Brinkman, including a number of older Pinots going back to 2006. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) none of those older wines appears close to being ready to drink! The Rhys team is obsessed with their vineyards. Everything else is fairly straightforward. The Chardonnays are vinified using ambient yeasts. The wines are not racked until they are prepared for bottling, which is done with no fining or filtration. The Pinots are made in a similarly minimalist fashion, with a high percentage of stems (50-100%) and little manipulation in the cellar. Harvey describes 2009 as a cooler vintage overall than 2008. Tel. (866) 511-1520; www.rhysvineyards.com

Bright yellow. Lively, assertive aromas of orange zest, jasmine, mint, iodine and smoky minerals. Pure and incisive, with energetic, mineral-accented citrus and green apple flavors that gain weight with air. Finishes with excellent clarity and spicy cut, strongly echoing the orange and iodine notes. I suspect this vivacious wine will put on weight with a few more years of bottle age.