2009 Coteaux Nobles Pinot Noir

The 2009 Pinot Noir Coteaux Nobles is gorgeous, expressive in the way it wraps around the palate from start to finish. Sweet dark cherries, hard candy, flowers, mint and spices are some of the many nuances that come to life in this round, supple Pinot. I would prefer to enjoy the 2009 over the next few years, while the fruit remains fleshy and juicy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup. Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com

(15.5% alcohol): Good deep red. Very ripe aromas of raspberry, kirsch, plum and chocolate, with a note of more energetic raspberry emerging with air. Sweet and plush on the palate, but with surprising acidity and sappiness to the raspberry fruit complicated by forest floor nuances. The fruit becomes downright explosive as the wine opens in the glass. Finishes with very good structure and lift.