2010 En Famille Pinot Noir

Luc Morlet’s 2010 Pinot Noir En Famille blasts from the glass with juicy dark cherries, raspberries, tobacco, smoke and licorice. Hints of cloves, earthiness and smoke develop later, adding quite a bit of complexity. Today it is the wine’s big, broad-shouldered frame and massive power that come through most. Layers of dark fruit flow through to the brooding, masculine finish. This is a strong showing. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Luc Morlet must surely have one of the broadest portfolios in California between the wines he makes under his own labels and for his consulting clients. There are a lot of beautiful wines in this range, although I have to admit, I tend to prefer the wines Morlet makes in Napa Valley over those from Sonoma. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over the 2010s, as I find the more recent vintage a touch more refined. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the 2011 Pinots, but found them in an awkward, raw state that is not unusual for young wines from this cold and very late harvest. Tel. (707) 967-8690

(from the same vineyards as the Coteaux Nobles but fermented in 600-liter puncheons): Good medium red. Raspberry and strawberry aromas complicated by a leathery nuance. Enters the mouth silky, then broadens out on the back half, maintaining its lift and conveying an impression of firm acidity. The combination of acids and tannins gives spine to the lightly saline finishing flavors of raspberry liqueur and minerals.

The 2010 Pinot Noir En Famille is from the same site as the Coteaux Nobles, but here Morlet uses puncheons to ferment the juice. As is to be expected, this is a much more intense style of Pinot, with greater depth in the fruit, sweeter aromatics and an overall impression of depth. Super ripe red berries, hard candy, flowers and licorice round out the finish. This is a racy, exuberant wine that will appeal most to readers who enjoy full-bodied, flashy Pinot.