2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

(13.5% alcohol): Bright ruby. Aromas of cherry and currant show intrusive green pepper and asparagus notes. Smooth on the palate but showing little in the way of flavor development, with the green quality carrying through in the mouth. This became smoother with aeration but the tannins are dry and the wine tails off on the finish. This vintage was one of the few disappointments in my March vertical tasting of this powerful mountain Cabernet.

The two flagship wines of this brilliant estate, which straddles the Sonoma and Napa county lines at the top of Spring Mountain, include the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot). Sixty-eight percent of the fruit comes from Sonoma and 32% from Napa. It exhibits classic notes of creme de cassis, licorice, cedarwood, incense and a hint of toasty oak in the background. Full-bodied, opulent, profound deep, rich and full with velvety edges, the tannin can be detected, but it is wonderfully integrated in this mountain-styled Cabernet. It continues Pride’s impressive track record with these special cuvees. The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve can be drunk young or cellared for two decades or more. More nuances and complexity will undoubtedly emerge over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 963-4949