2018 Penfolds Superblend 802 B

Thick cassis but not enough lift. A little sour. (JR)

Self-proclaimed superblend, replete with a heavy bottle and, as the back label says, DNA from blocks that go into the two legendary Penfolds wines Grange and Bin 707. All of those things set up a certain level of expectation, and what you get is big and muscular, no question, but also pretty irresistable. Sharply focused bay, mint and underbrush character, spiced raspberry, loganberry and black cherry fruits, and just a ton of grip, mocha, pencil lead, red liqourice and bitter espresso. As the tannic grip softens, a lingering cold stone and sweet cedar smoke remains. Aged in 54% new French oak casks. Peter Gago chief winemaker.

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Shiraz. Blended pre-maturation. Matured in French oak for 19 months. This is more like the Penfolds style than the 802-A, the fruit is beautifully sleek and potent. Finely brushed tannin, volume without weight. Meaty and savoury. Long. Champions the Cab/Shiraz blend convincingly. (RH)