1988 Brunello di Montalcino

Extremely well-balanced rainfall distribution, with a rainy spring and good temperatures. During the summer, high, but not excessively high, temperatures, and excellent weather during pre-harvest and harvest time. Still the same label as the 1968. Alcohol is creeping up. NB not a Riserva. The cork was irredeemably jammed in the bottleneck so this had to poured into a decanter through a hole drilled through the cork. Vigorous mid ruby colour with hints of brick at the rim. Notably more pungent than the two older vintages. Strong gamey notes with some heat effects (this the oldest vintage with obvious tannin; was this a particularly dry vintage with thick-skinned grapes? It certainly tastes like it. Not quite as 'pure' as the 1968 and 1979 but still impressively alive and kicking even with a certain dustiness and pinched, rather drying tannins on the end. Food definitely needed with this wine! A tad brutal rather than sweet and gorgeous. The butch face of Brunello? (JR)