2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes

A blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre from the lieux-dits of La Crau (sud) and Cristia, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is huge in the mouth, full-bodied and expansive, with a rich, velvety texture and tremendous length. Notes of raspberries, black cherries, dark chocolate, cola and licorice are compacted into this dense ball of richness, which somehow avoids feeling heavy or warm, framed by a webbing of fine-grained tannins and surprising acidity. I don't know if it will age well past about a decade or so, but it's pretty darn delicious now.

The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes checks in as 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre and it comes mostly from the La Crau lieu-dit, with a smaller amount from the Cristia lieu-dit (which isn’t far from where the domaine is located). Classic notes of kirsch liqueur, crushed rocks, spice, and incense all emerge from the glass, and it has a rich, structured, full-bodied style that’s going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age. Nevertheless, it shows the Provençal, classic style of this great vintage. 333 cases. One of the finest run estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is the Maret family’s Domaine de la Charbonnière, which is in the heart of the appellation, just off the route to Courthezon. They produce four Châteauneuf du Pape (readers should read last year’s report on the 2016 and 2017s for a description of each of the cuvées), all meriting attention. In addition, they’ve added two new Vacqueyras releases, bringing the total from that appellation to three cuvées. The 2017s aren’t far off what was achieved in 2016, and the 2018s all showed beautifully, with more depth and richness that most in the vintage.

Aromas of violets, dark cherries and white stones here, as well as a smooth and succulent feel to the palate. A wealth of blueberries, plums and garrigue, too. The palate has such depth and suave tannin delivery and the rich, dark-plum and cherry flavors hold so long and intense. This will age so well. Best from 2025.